Review of the Watanabe Wa-Gyuto

The wa-gyuto is simply a gyuto or chef knife made in the traditional style and method of classic Japanese kitchen cutlery. It will have a rat tail tang and wood handle with a traditional buffalo horn ferrule. It will normally be hand forged.

Here are the specifications for my wa-gyuto:

Model – Watanabe 270mm Aoko Kasumi Wa-Gyuto
Blade length – 10 3/4"
Overall length – 17 3/8"
Weight – 8 ¾ oz.
Construction – Hand forged aoko kasumi
Blade – Blue Hagane sandwiched with soft iron
Handle – octagonal Ho wood with horn ferrule.

I ordered a 270mm blue steel kasumi knife with the octagonal Ho wood handles. What arrived from Watanabe's shop was, as expected, an outstanding example of a traditional Japanese knife. Fit and finish are flawless. The knife is made as it should be with care and craftsmanship.

Unlike most Japanese knives, which arrive partially sharpened, Watanabe normally ships his products ready to go. I rarely feel the need to tune the edges of his knives and this one was no exception. After a solid week of daily use, the edge needs no work at all. It needs no steeling or sharpening. This knife holds an edge very well. I estimate the hardness of the blade at RC63-64 or somewhere in that range.

The blade is hand finished to a nice satin finish. Mirror polishing is available at extra cost for those that want it. The fit of the handle is as it should be and the fit is near perfect.

Traditional Japanese knives are blade heavy. All of them are because the tangs are small and the handles are light. One gets used to maneuvering them and the blade heaviness is simply not an issue on a yanagi, usuba or other traditional pattern. But because the size of the blade on this knife, my wa-gyuto is very, very blade heavy. In fact, the balance point is over 3" forward of the front of the ferrule.

Westerners like me are used to relatively neutral balance on a chef knife so this knife feels heavy and awkward while chopping for me. It weighs no more than a typical 240mm gyuto but feels quite a bit heavier because of the balance. If I had this order to do over, I would opt for a shorter blade. That would bring the balance point backward toward the handle. Basically, if can choose between this knife and my slightly blade heavy 270mm Hattori gyuto, I will opt for the Hattori every time. It is just more comfortable for me.

I found the traditional handle comfortable enough while chopping. I tend to grasp the blade about as far forward as I can go so I don't usually have much of a grip on the handle. The traditional handle didn't bother me at all.

For people who really appreciate traditional Japanese cutlery design and construction and who want a long gyuto will likely find a way to get used to the balance of this knife. Those who can get by with a shorter blade would likely be happier with the balance such a blade would provide. There is no question that this knife is an outstanding example of traditional Japanese craftsmanship and that it is up to the task for which it was designed. I would really like it if it balanced differently. Here's an image:

Please don't misunderstand my ratings. I have downgraded the knife in ergonomics because it is more blade heavy than is comfortable for me. It may be fine for you. This blade heaviness also impacts performance to a degree. My slight downgrade in performance has nothing at all to do with the steel, blade or edge which I would rate at 5.

Fit and Finish: 5
Performance: 4.5
Ergonomics: 3

If you want a gyuto with a traditional handle made with first class quality and craftsmanship, this could be the knife for you. If you can get by with a shorter blade, you may like it even more than the long blade, if you feel like I do about balance. I can say without question that it is impossible to find this kind of quality in a traditional Japanese knife at the prices Watanabe charges. They are truly an exceptional value. Good cooking

 

 


   
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