PDA

View Full Version : What NOT to do... Grand Cheff Edition



thombrogan
02-05-2012, 07:42 AM
So I thought the pedestrian scratches I had left on my Grand Cheff Wa-Gyuto needed some help/fixing:

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af343/ttcbrogan/GrandCheff/01_scrwa.jpg

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af343/ttcbrogan/GrandCheff/02_scrwa.jpg

Weren't so bad. Not pristine, but weren't so bad. Well, I was reading on the interwebz about conditioning belts and the satin finishes they impart. I was psyched! Then I read that they were too tight for the motor on my el cheapo sander to use without burning out. I was unpsyched. Then I read about people using 400 grit sanding belts on similar sanders for similar effects.

I retrospect, I think the folks with those great results were using cloth-backed belts (I used Mylar-backed) and the slack area of their sanders or grinders (I used the platen). I was mortified:

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af343/ttcbrogan/GrandCheff/03_scrwa.jpg

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af343/ttcbrogan/GrandCheff/04_scrwa.jpg

What a day to be all out of 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper! Grr!

So some loose 80 grit SiC powder on a plastic sheet over glass followed by some 320 grit wet/dry, and some Flitz have tried in vain to hide my shame:

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af343/ttcbrogan/GrandCheff/05_scrwa.jpg

http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af343/ttcbrogan/GrandCheff/06_scrwa.jpg

Gross, but will clean up when I get some 220.

jmbullman
02-05-2012, 09:30 AM
Sorry to here about that Thom I know mark sells some pads with high grits to get out scratches. Something similar happened to me on one of my beloved spydercos so I went down to my local hardware/automotive store who sell auto paint and told him the problem I was having and he came back with pact of 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper and in literally 10 mins my spyderco had a beautiful satin finish. If you can't find up your way let me know i have plenty it really does work. On a couple of marks knives cam in scratched up from the factory and I used it and he wanted to know what I did so he could do the same, if that tells u anything. Peace and call if you need some. Jmbullman

jmbullman
02-05-2012, 12:10 PM
Thom, forget the sandpaper for now I forgot about this and I know mark uses it in some knives that come in with fine scratches, go to lowes or home depot and get 0000 grit steel wool it will be listed as extra fine, I did that on one of my fujiwaras before I started the patina and when I was done cutting the rare roast it had taken on the most beautiful blue and red with a fee other colors mixed in it worked great. That should take care or your problem or a combo of the two. Good luck, james

black.echo
02-05-2012, 02:06 PM
220 on a hard rubber block, lubed with water/Dawn, applied heel to tip, will cover a lot of sins.

And a Kalamazoo 1x42 will take any belt you can throw at it. Enco is usually having a promotion of some sort--15% off, free shipping, etc. Worth getting on their e-mail list IMO.

rhinoknives1
02-05-2012, 05:35 PM
What a day to be all out of 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper! Grr!

So some loose 80 grit SiC powder on a plastic sheet over glass followed by some 320 grit wet/dry, and some Flitz have tried in vain to hide my shame:) "QUOTE"

Thom,
You are jumping grits to far.
How I Grind & finish a Chef Blade or any blade it to just double grits every step.
For instance I grind out the bevel at 36G -50G -120G-220G-400G Change direction of sanding or grinding with every grit change so you can see if you missed any spots.

Then after 400G I go to the 3M Scotchbrite belts all the same direction, With a Purple, then blue and the finest is a grey.

I really take a step backwards with the Scotchbrite belts to appox 220Grit But I want to get a nice even bright satin finish.
As far as the burnt tip is concerned you have compromised the heat treatment, Just grind it off by dropping the tip for a new point.
There are many ways to accomplish this, This is the method I was taught by some prominent knifemakers when I started like the now departed Mr. Bob loveless for one. I learn the Scotchbrite from someone else and incorporated the two together for my work.

I hope this helps some?

Laurence
www.westsidesharpening.com/

thombrogan
02-05-2012, 11:17 PM
Helps plenty. Thanks Laurence, James, and Bill!

When the tip flashed and I saw it had discolored both sides, I knew I didn't know too much.

At least now I have a good hunch of how I'm spending my lunch break tomorrow. :rolleyes:

rhinoknives1
02-05-2012, 11:38 PM
Helps plenty. Thanks Laurence, James, and Bill!

When the tip flashed and I saw it had discolored both sides, I knew I didn't know too much.

At least now I have a good hunch of how I'm spending my lunch break tomorrow. :rolleyes:

I forgot to say that I'm mostly doing this work, Grinding & Sanding on my 2" x 72" Knife maker machine, All of this will still apply when sanding by hand.

Make yourself a block out of oak or another hardwood about 1" thick to hold and move the sanding papers on and go for a good Wet & Dry Paper, Norton or 3M and some oil like Mobile 1, Or Cool Tool or some even use simple green spray soap with good results! Save the flitz for the very last thing.

Have fun!
Laurence