Thinning the blades - questions

[chefjeffrey]

Peter's recent post about his seemingly sharp knife seeming to "cleeve" things struck a nerve with me as I had recently sharpened all the knives in my everyday use block and several, afterwards, while seemingly sharp, had that cleeving feeling while cutting carrots and other veggies. Today I thinned the blades on the problem knives and worked my way through the stones. The result - success they all now not only felt sharp, but glided through carrots and anything else I cut.
My question is how often do the pro chefs here thin the blade as opposed to maintaining the blade. Also when tuning up a blade what stone do they start on and how fine do they go? I have Shapton Pro 320,1000,5000,8000 and have just ordered a 2000 and a 12000. Sometimes it seems like starting with the 5000 is too fine, but maybe 1000 is too coarse and will result in needing to thin again soon. Sharpening neurosis!
Also, when thinning, do you thin on a 220 and 320, and then just start your primary bevel with a 1000 or do you polish up the secondary before cutting the primary? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img] Help me please before I sharpen again!

[RETREVR]

I have a watanabe gyuto that is about a year old and it is due for thining. I worked it on a 1000grit but really need something more aggressive. I may just send it back and have it re-beveled.
I also have a tojiro that is a year and a half old that needs a re-bevel. It just takes too long on a 1000 grit.
I can usually get by with periodically trimming back the secondary bevel. I am past that point now.

[blwchef]

I have used my 700 grit Bester to thin and reprofile. It seems to work well but could be a touch faster and more agressive. I'd say a 400 grit would be nice for this, fast but not too fast like a 320 or 220. http://www.japanwoodworker.com/produ...&dept_id=13120

[louisianacook]

I am still looking for the best stone for this type of work, while the waterstones are fast, they are also fast wearing, even the venerable Shapton pro's in these coarse grits, 120 etc. I have decided to resist the diamond plate route, but may have to give it a try as my knives get older, and thicker.

[Grouch]

as my knives get older, and thicker.

Wow Lee!?! I thought you replaced your knives too often to need thinning.

[chefjeffrey]

Thanks for the replies guys. Uhh.. the silence was getting a little deafening for awhile there. I thought perhaps I had made some major feaux pas in this post. I may look into that 400 grit stone.
On other notes, I just got my 2000# and 12000# Shapton Pro stones today. I just finished trying them out with a few of my most used knives. As someone else noted there is an amazing amount of "spooge" even on the 12000. They seemed to work well, but it is late and I didn't actually try to them out on anything but my fingertips (Carter test) Tomorrow wil tell.
I have also ordered a 270mm Hiromoto Carbon after all the good press here. This is my first order (probably of many) from JCK.
I had also recently gotten the Dojo petty Brandon is so fond of from EE. I like it so far, but my initial impression is "Damn that blue steel is hard stuff!" It may dampened my enthusiasm for other Blue steel or powdered steel knives.

[blwchef]

"I had also recently gotten the Dojo petty Brandon is so fond of from EE. I like it so far, but my initial impression is "Damn that blue steel is hard stuff!" It may dampened my enthusiasm for other Blue steel or powdered steel knives."

You will get used to it. I just sharpened mine a second ago. It feels like butter compared to the cowry-x in my KD. It deffinately helps to start on lower grites with harder knives. Saves you time and energy.